68’ TTJX “Finger Rack” Rebar Service Flatcar Project Directions

www. Thoroughbredrrmodels.com
Email: service@thoroughbredrrmodels.com
Authored by: Bob DeStefano
ATLAS TRAINMAN 68’ FLATCAR TTX or Undec. preferred
Evergreen Strip Styrene #112 - .015”x .040”
EVERGREEN Strip Styrene #143 -.015” x .040”
Evergreen strip Styrene #106- .010” x .060”
24” drop Grab irons, 19.5” drop or straight end grab irons if needed
Plano #12007 Stanray Handle Style Coupler Cut Levers w/hangers
Hi-Tech #6038 Air Hoses
Kadee#156 “scale” head whisker extended couplers
DECALS: TTJX Decal Set JWD#12110 (JWD Premium Products) by HighBall Graphics (TTX Speed lettering logo); or,
MicroScale #87-552 (Red Oxide) TTX flatcars; Microscale #87-578, TTX 2008+ Red logos, see Microscale #87-12988.



Carefully pry off the brake wheel & housing assembly from the end of the Atlas Trainman flatcar; save for later re-installation.


The wood deck of the car will have to be sanded down either by using a long wood block or if you have access to table belt sander. If hand sanding, use a wood block the length of a piece of sandpaper and with the wood block securely fastened to a flat surface sand the deck off until it’s almost flat with the top of the stake pockets.


Using a flat razor blade, carefully remove what remains of the chain railings between the coupler pockets and end of the car sides. The original deck should end at the side of the car. Carefully file smooth or sand lightly as necessary.


Cut and install a new deck from 0.010” sheet styrene. The new “STEEL” deck’s dimensions are 9.375” x 1.5”. The width of the new deck extends over the sides even with the outside edges of the stake pocket. Cement to the sanded deck of your flatcar. Laminate two strips of .010” strip styrene 9.375” x 0.5625” (36/64ths). Laminate to the deck with the outside edges aligned with the outside edges of the new deck. This will leave a small indented area in the center of the deck running the length of the car.


Using a flat razor blade & #11 Exacto blade, carefully cut square the openings of each stake pocket. A sharp flat razor blade will cut the .020” deck to the depth of the side sill without bending the .020” thick decking. The inside cut depth is even with side sill edge. This will expose the top of stake pockets. OPTIONAL STEP: Carefully drill out each stake pocket so you can use chain to fasten a rebar load to the car should you decide to model a loaded car.


Modifying the jacking pads on the car sides. Using an Exacto knife carefully remove plastic from each side of the original jacking pads until you can fit a 5/32nds” piece of Evergreen Strip Styrene #265 channel over it. Top of the jacking pad is flush up against the bottom side of the deck and should be even with the bottom of the original jacking pad which forms the bottom of the new late version jacking pad. Carefully cut each of the two roping tabs off, cut in half horizontally through the center hole along the bottom each side sill leaving a more “U” shaped roping tab that can be found in prototype photos of the car and relocate along the bottom of the side sill aligned just inside the inner edge of the jacking pads. If need be, consult one of the prototype photos for remounting.


Complete the detailing of the deck! Measuring the spacing for the 2 deck load support brackets at each end of the car, the load support nearest each end of the car is centered 7/8ths” from each end. Cut 9 -1.5” strips of Evergreen # 112 strip styrene for the center of each load support bracket. Each will be laminated on the center line of each support. Cut 18-1.5” strips. These will be laminated to the deck on both sides of each .015 x .040” to form the Load support brackets. You will repeat this procedure to make for each of the load support brackets. The second bracket from each end is centered 7/8ths” from each end. After completing the installation of the pair of load support brackets on each end, draw a centering line across the floor, .50” from the center of each of the interior end load support brackets. This line marks will you will install the finger rack brackets. The center deck load support is located 2.3125” from the finger rack bracket center line. There are two load support brackets on either side of the center load support brackets. They are centered .5625“and 1.156” to either side of the center load support bracket. Build each of the load support brackets following the same method you just used to assemble each of the end load support brackets. When you have finished assembling all the floor load support brackets on the deck you are ready to weld the finger racket brackets in place on the deck. Laminate a 0.3125” (20/64”) strip of .010” x .060” across the depression in the center of the deck before welding the finger rack bracket to the deck.


Detail your car by adding individual grab irons to the sides and ends. Consult a photo and note the type of grab irons used on the car. I have noted different grab irons on different cars as I studied different photos. Some of these photos are included in the Finger Rack Rebar Flat Car Project on the THOROUGHBRED RAILROAD MODELS Facebook page. Lastly, install Kadee #156 extended whisker couplers, the Hi-Tech Details air hoses, and the Plano Stan-Ray coupler cut levers to the ends of the car. The car is now ready for you to paint and decal. Match to the prototype car of your preference.

AI Website Builder